Sabyasachi Mukherjee styles 3 generations of women in stunning jewellery

Sabyasachi Mukherjee styles 3 generations of women in stunning jewellery - Vogue India

Posted: 18 Sep 2019 07:15 AM PDT

On a monsoon day in Kolkata, in a heritage building close to Park Street, fashion and jewellery designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee is unveiling treasures from his Heritage collection. "The pieces are inspired by the Victorian era, seen through the lens of Indian craftsmanship," says the maestro as he shows off a series of spectacular necklaces. His models today are a trio of women from different generations, from grandmother to granddaughter. The matriarch is Sunita Kumar, one of Kolkata's elite, much admired for collaborating with Hermès, spending decades aiding Mother Teresa and playing muse to MF Husain. "Sunita is one of the true icons of Kolkata. A woman of formidable style and exceptional grace. I truly believe that she embodies the quintessential erudite elegance of old-world Kolkata that the city is famous for," reflects the Bengali maverick. She is joined by her Delhi-based daughter Preah Narang and granddaughter Shivanie Mirchandani, who have not only inherited her great genes and pedigree but also her effortless style.

Sunita Kumar, 76, Kolkata
Social worker and spokesperson for Missionaries of Charity

"Sabyasachi knows how much I love pearls," says Kumar, referring to the dramatic South Sea pearl and diamond necklace she's wearing with a gigantic 306-carat yellow sapphire. "I wanted to create a piece for her that was simple and classic, subtly underlined with eclecticism, very much like her," explains Mukherjee. "That's why I didn't carve out the yellow sapphire into a more conventional shape." To highlight the jewel Sunita pulls out a black georgette sari he gifted her on New Year's Eve a few years ago. "It has a silver tiger border with a pallu of the Taj Mahal, emphasising the flamboyance of the Mughals," she says fondly. Saris are Kumar's preferred evening wear and have always been a talking point for her—she was the first person invited to design a limited edition of chiffon saris for Hermès in 1999.

There was an alphabet sari featuring different fonts she passed down to her daughter Preah and an iconic orange sari that her granddaughter Shivanie will inherit. She's also collected embroidered saris by Madame Chorosch, an expat in Mumbai. "Her designs had a chic French flair that were a rage with Bollywood film stars in the '60s and '70s." Her jewellery box is brimming with exotic pearls, including a belly-grazing Mikimoto chain saved for special occasions and trinkets by Hanut Singh, like a pair of amethyst and diamond earrings gifted by her friend Sharmila Tagore. "I remember the first time I met Sunita, she was wearing a pair of asymmetrical earrings of two different sizes, her beautifully coiffured hair and her Hermès chiffon sari. That image stayed with me for a long time," recalls Mukherjee fondly. "She has formidable style: chic and restrained but with a lot of pizzazz." The admiration is mutual. Says Kumar: "He is so big-hearted. A man of few words but always coming up with fresh ideas."

Preah Narang, 52, Delhi
Brand ambassador, Halcyon Days India

"Preah is one of the most beautiful women I have ever met in my life. She has a fine bone structure, with eyes that take you on a time travel," muses Mukherjee. To draw attention to her distinct features he picks a brilliant-cut diamond choker interlaced with pearls. "This classic choice has a predictable old-world charm, unique to the kind of jewellery you would find on Old Bond Street or Ponte Vecchio," he explains. Narang picks a high-neck Issey Miyake blouse as a neutral backdrop for the gems. "Not only is Sabyasachi blessed with great aesthetic, design sense and creativity, he is also humble and real and has the gift to connect effortlessly," she says. Two decades ago, Narang bought a heavy gold and black half-half sari by him that still sparks joy. She often sticks to the classics—everything from Chanel slingback pumps to monochrome pearl necklaces from her trousseau. These days comfort and functionality play a big role in her fashion choices. "I've just finished a round of chemotherapy and radiation, so I'm mostly dressed in GapFit Breathe track pants and Uniqlo basics," she explains. For practical shoes, it's Fizzy Goblet juttis and Stoffa Kolhapuri wedges. "Fashion should have its own energy that vibes with yours," she concludes.

Shivanie Mirchandani, 31, Delhi
Regional marketing advisor and co-founder, Minus 30 Gelato

"I wanted to make my own version of the chandelier necklace that has been made by many jewellers around the world," reveals Mukherjee. His interpretation comes with 65 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds, a pendant of 16 carats of rose cuts and a "red carpet feel." Mirchandani, the youngest of the three women, is dressed in an Yves Saint Laurent jumpsuit with a sweetheart neckline. "My mother and grandmother have always taught me that style is simplicity," she explains. "You can make a statement even if you are simple." She prefers her daily jewellery to be uncomplicated: a gold wedding band and a sentimental pearl and gold bangle gifted by a friend. She also treasures her grandmother's gold anklets, a family heirloom.

"They are special because I've grown up seeing her wearing them everyday." She reflects on a Sabyasachi all-gold sequinned sari with a fullsleeved blouse she bought for a wedding in 2014, which she accessorised with gold juttis from Lahore. "His pieces are so impactful," she says. For the most part her closet is biased towards dresses from Net-a-Porter. "The website is well curated and easy to navigate. Their customer service is great, too." Her latest splurge? A metallic dress by Isabel Marant: "It's short, fun and flouncy."

Photographed by Farhan Hussain; Styled by Daniel Franklin
Hair and makeup: Zainab Ashraf, Production: Rohan Hande, Photographer's assistant: Radhika Chopra